Live music scene

Tonight, after dinner we went for a little walk across Ile de la Cite. Took some photos of Notre Dame at night. It's far more pleasant than in the day time and in the photos I like the way the sky looks somewhat apocalyptic.



Earlier in the evening there had been some horns playing on our street, although we couldn't see them out the window, and we had made various guesses as to their purpose, We ran into the troupe on Pont St Louis. Their group included woodwind and brass sections as well as percussion and some dancers. As they played, they hopped about, passers by stopped to listen and cheer, but they seemed to have their own entourage as well.






Later on we saw them progressing west along the river. It was a pleasure.

The great Laduree debate

What is a Paris blog without a post on Laduree? The answer is a disdainful Parisian rien.

From their website comes this image of their delightful delicacies.



I admit that I have not tried all of the Paris macaroon makers but I can profess that Laduree's macaroons are sublime. The Diva is a small, vibrantly magenta explosion of flavour and an absolute sensation. The orange flower water is dainty and delectable (describing food makes me slip into alliteration, apologies).

While the storefront in the second is indeed grand it is terribly busy. Try the slightly more tucked away shop on rue Bonaparte in the sixth, here's a shot of their tea room.



Admittedly it's expensive, coffee is cheaper than tea and I probably wouldn't choose this venue for a meal but for an afternoon nibble it is sublime. And to me, the macaroons are worth every centime.

Favourite bookshops

It took me three weeks or so but I have determined which are my favourite bookshops in Paris now. Conveniently they are around the corner from one another. (M Odeon)
View Larger Map and both are second hand which is useful considering budgetary constraints.

In no particular order:

Berkeley Books



This seemingly small shop has a wonderful selection, fiction sections for hardcover/trade paperbacks and A format with first editions and all the important authors scattered throughout. The order of the books is refreshing considering some other second hand bookshops visited and the quality is high. The prices are perhaps more expensive that in Sydney, for instance, with a small format paperback costing around 6euros but books generally are expensive here so the price does not seem unreasonable.

And they swap or buy your old books, in case it comes to that. The owner/operator is a grizzled American man with a fittingly white beard. My biggest concern was leaving with less than five books.

The San Francisco Book Company



A fellow customer's question revealed that the owner of Berkeley Books was a former partner in the San Francisco Book company - the storefront of Abe books in Paris. I would like to know that story.

This shop is slightly smaller but has similar quality and you can easily find classics, contemporary favourites, poetry and criticism as well as sci-fi, if you're into that sort of thing. Again, this shop does trades or buys books and a paperback is roughly 6euros.

While Villiage Voice is a pleasure and your Shakespeare and Co sells some second hand books, the traveller mostly can't afford the indulgence of uncut pages, metaphorically speaking, so these are a delightful option.

Paris - days 1-3

Architecture

Yes. It is beautiful. In a ridiculously ordered way. Take for example the trees. I can only imagine the expense of maintaining such straight lines, trees trimmed on all four sides - giving them four sides to start with is surely a challenge - and along the top. But it seems to work, this ordered space with a national character of rebellion, or so they like to think. The proprietor of a cafe complained to us about the new smoking laws and explained that the French aren't law abiding but he still took his cigarette outside.





People



Just about everyone speaks to us in English, from the corner supermarket checkout chick to waiters in cafes and shop assistants. I still persevere with my poor French and have been complimented once, which was really just because he was amazed someone from Australia had any French.

There are far more non-caucasians than when I was here four years ago. The metro, the streets, in rich areas and poorer ones exhibit a near Australian level of multiculturalism. There are sushi places EVERYWHERE and Thai places, although they're expensive.

The French women so far are failing expectations. There have been some perfect examples but on the whole they just look like they're trying to keep warm. The men, on the other hand, seem more frequently to dress exquisitely.

And on some streets it is 95% tourists. In the low season. Come summer I think we'll be hiding out in backstreets, if not before.

Shopping

Until I have a job I planned to get boots and a coat. This has been achieved, under budget no less.



The cape is from an outlet store in the Marais, from Belgium designer Dirk Van Saene. I am now equipped to fight crime.

Boots from upper 2e, just Italian ones, super comfortable.

Weather



It's a bit ridiculous. We're on to our forth day in a row of pure sunshine. It's "frais" indeed but yesterday, as we walked up the Champs Elysees, I went so far as to remove my jacket. This run of sunshine must end shortly. Perhaps it in part explains the the parks full - every seat taken. Just on the seats. It is difficult to imagine a park with loose chairs in Australia. Sure they are not of much value but anything not pinned down in Sydney for instance is stolen quick smart - regardless of value.

Signing off from days one to three. About to embark on day four.