New digs

Here's our new spot. One metro station away, whole new Paris. The flat is double the size but the price is the same because our front door is in-between a tattoo parlour and a kebab shop.







The area is like Newtown, compared with the Marais' eastern suburbs feel. There are cafes aplenty, including one which offers a five percent discount upon presentation of the docket at its lingerie shop over the road. Click here for a Frommer's review of Cafe de L'Industrie. We're just two blocks from our favourite fresh food markets and slightly removed from all those high fashion shops which so tormented me.

Aini - meeny - miney - mo

Well campers, Alice has bought a new skirt and it's more than a little pretty. The shop is Aini, a little spot, tucked between Place Des Vosges and rue Saint Antoine in the 4e.



It has no zip or buttons but relies on a fold and the tie. The designer was in the shop at the time of purchase and while she spoke to me in very speedy French I think I understood most of it. The inspiration is in part from kimonos, she is one of a team of three who design the clothes and they've had their shop for five years. The website (link above) is mostly under construction but I think I could well be going back, so this blog could become something of a Aini catalogue. In my opinion, it's just wonderful and so I wanted to share.

Guimauve

BOULANGERIE BASICS Episode 1.

Fascinated by this impressive display in a Marais bakery,



we decided to give mint a try. Thanks to the French writing, which I still find indecipherable, I asked for "gee-moo-ve" instead of "gui-moo-ve" but the shop assistant kindly corrected me and fetched the requested article.

When we took it home and cut it up, it looked like this.



We guessed that it had something in common with marshmallows and were right. This is the French version. The texture is utterly strange, evaporates in your mouth, or between your fingers if you squish it. On the tongue it is airy and sugary with a hint of slime but is overall quite pleasant. The exterior has a fine coating of sugar which provides something of a texture contrast. I think I would but it again, in part for the curiosity of how mandarin is transliterated into marshmallow, and to have the pleasure of saying its name... guimauve.

Here's where you'll find the bakery:

View Larger Map">Boulangerie Malineau,

Paris - days 1-3

Architecture

Yes. It is beautiful. In a ridiculously ordered way. Take for example the trees. I can only imagine the expense of maintaining such straight lines, trees trimmed on all four sides - giving them four sides to start with is surely a challenge - and along the top. But it seems to work, this ordered space with a national character of rebellion, or so they like to think. The proprietor of a cafe complained to us about the new smoking laws and explained that the French aren't law abiding but he still took his cigarette outside.





People



Just about everyone speaks to us in English, from the corner supermarket checkout chick to waiters in cafes and shop assistants. I still persevere with my poor French and have been complimented once, which was really just because he was amazed someone from Australia had any French.

There are far more non-caucasians than when I was here four years ago. The metro, the streets, in rich areas and poorer ones exhibit a near Australian level of multiculturalism. There are sushi places EVERYWHERE and Thai places, although they're expensive.

The French women so far are failing expectations. There have been some perfect examples but on the whole they just look like they're trying to keep warm. The men, on the other hand, seem more frequently to dress exquisitely.

And on some streets it is 95% tourists. In the low season. Come summer I think we'll be hiding out in backstreets, if not before.

Shopping

Until I have a job I planned to get boots and a coat. This has been achieved, under budget no less.



The cape is from an outlet store in the Marais, from Belgium designer Dirk Van Saene. I am now equipped to fight crime.

Boots from upper 2e, just Italian ones, super comfortable.

Weather



It's a bit ridiculous. We're on to our forth day in a row of pure sunshine. It's "frais" indeed but yesterday, as we walked up the Champs Elysees, I went so far as to remove my jacket. This run of sunshine must end shortly. Perhaps it in part explains the the parks full - every seat taken. Just on the seats. It is difficult to imagine a park with loose chairs in Australia. Sure they are not of much value but anything not pinned down in Sydney for instance is stolen quick smart - regardless of value.

Signing off from days one to three. About to embark on day four.